Fischer GTS Telemark delamination
Re: Fischer GTS Telemark delamination
They came as part of a bundle with a couple of pairs of used Cirques. Sold unseen, collected by a friend, and the plastic wrapping meant that the edge defects went unnoticed. Paid £50 for them which I'm sure is probably over the odds, but I'm not sure how directly comparable prices are with other parts of the world.
I'm in no rush to get them skiing (as there is currently little snow), so will probably leave them up high in our boiler room until next winter, and see if the gaps close up a little.
We do have marine suppliers that serve the Highlands, so that sounds like a good starting point to look for epoxy resin. Have also been toying with the idea of setting up some sort of high frequency vibration on the ski, to help draw down the epoxy. Might be able to rig something up with my eccentric sander, a plywood plate and a couple of clamps. We'll see...
I'm in no rush to get them skiing (as there is currently little snow), so will probably leave them up high in our boiler room until next winter, and see if the gaps close up a little.
We do have marine suppliers that serve the Highlands, so that sounds like a good starting point to look for epoxy resin. Have also been toying with the idea of setting up some sort of high frequency vibration on the ski, to help draw down the epoxy. Might be able to rig something up with my eccentric sander, a plywood plate and a couple of clamps. We'll see...
- Stephen
- Posts: 1485
- Joined: Thu Aug 06, 2020 12:49 am
- Location: PNW USA
- Ski style: Aspirational
- Favorite Skis: Armada Tracer 118 (195), Gamme (210), Ingstad (205), Objective BC (178)
- Favorite boots: Alfa Guard Advance, Scarpa TX Pro
- Occupation: Beyond
6’3” / 191cm — 172# / 78kg, size 47 / 30 mondo
Re: Fischer GTS Telemark delamination
Possibly the best way to draw the epoxy into the ski is to first thoroughly warm the skis to something like 100*F (randomly selected number).
Then, when you put the epoxy in, the warmth will lower the viscosity and allow it to penetrate more easily.
More importantly, as the ski cools, the air inside the ski will shrink, which will suck the epoxy further into the ski. You might have to do each of the four sides separately to get the best results (tip ski on edge so the gap is at the highest level, to keep the epoxy in the ski).
You may be surprised by how much epoxy the gap will absorb.
If you end up needing to clean epoxy off of anything before it cures, common vinegar will remove uncurled epoxy almost as well as acetone, and is a lot cheaper and safer.