Liquid vs hot wax

[Rodbelan]

The liquid ones I tried didn't last very long... But I now use them sometimes in the spring with wet snow to do a sort of retouch... I guess the new formulas are better... but look at the price tag... oops!

I do not know about damaging the base... I iron wax for many years and never had an issue; my iron (Swix) has an adjustable temperature knob (I have seen people using clothe irons on their ski... it is feasible, but you have to be careful not to overheat the base). BTW, damaging base with solvent doesn't seem to be that problematic; the plastic used is very stable... Even in the dedicated wax remover, there is petroleum distillat... We had a discussion about that a year ago with Smitty...

[mca80]

Thanks all for the info, especially @Chisana for start green specific. I warmed up the excess wax and gave it a scrape a few seconds later. I also learned that using a nylon brush, albeit stiff one, I needed to apply more force. All the skis look good now, smooth and shiny.

Now, since this is cold glide wax, how will it perform if temps get above the recommended use of 14F? Should I rub some f4 on top in that case, or will it work just fine for my recreational use?

[Chisana]

I think you will be just fine with start green even at warmer temps. In my opinion, kickwax is much more temperature dependent than glide wax for recreational skiing. And for glide wax, better to have too hard a wax than too soft.
I have a wax locker that is overflowing with various kick waxes, klisters and glide waxes. But for years I used parrafin for glide on my backcountry skis, and never once thought the parrafin was hurting the skis performance. Just my ,02.