So my new Åsnes MR 48 skins just arrived and they came with a significant linear base pattern. I plan to use them on two long, cold races here in the West. My local Nordic shop can’t do a stone grind bc of the metal edges. I don’t really trust them at an alpine shop so here are my questions:
1: Would using a rolling structure tool even do anything to help without a grind?
2: Has anyone taken a shot at grinding a base by hand? I have a 1000 grit whetstone for knives, would that be blasphemy to use?
3: Is there a shop worth shipping them to grind?
4: Should I just not worry about? I’m not trying to set records here just trying to qualify for the ITI.
Base Advice please
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Re: Base Advice please
MR48 Skins! Congratulations! New skis mmmm
Ah, me, I'd be inclined to say fuck it and just make sure your glide wax is dialled in for the long haul (and you get a little pre-race use on the skins so they're worn-in a bit?) but please note I'm pretty gung ho and racing is not exactly my thing.
My instinct is there's not much you need do to brand, brand new bases apart from fibretex them until they're sufficiently sexy and then glide wax them with a good finish until they're as sexy and shiny as fuck (and whatever new base prep regime you adhere to.)
Actually, isn't "significant linear base pattern" a good thing for glide, or have I misunderstood? (Where's Manney when you need him, ha ha!)
All right, I say a comprehensive polish, rolling structure tool (why not) and a really good glide waxing will be perfectly sufficient if you're not actually in race skis, in the rails, on a groomed trail, but consider this a conversation-opener rather than a definitive answer because I'm a bit too 'Let's stop for a hot chocolate and look at the view' for racing advice!
EDIT: I am lazy.
Ah, me, I'd be inclined to say fuck it and just make sure your glide wax is dialled in for the long haul (and you get a little pre-race use on the skins so they're worn-in a bit?) but please note I'm pretty gung ho and racing is not exactly my thing.
My instinct is there's not much you need do to brand, brand new bases apart from fibretex them until they're sufficiently sexy and then glide wax them with a good finish until they're as sexy and shiny as fuck (and whatever new base prep regime you adhere to.)
Actually, isn't "significant linear base pattern" a good thing for glide, or have I misunderstood? (Where's Manney when you need him, ha ha!)
All right, I say a comprehensive polish, rolling structure tool (why not) and a really good glide waxing will be perfectly sufficient if you're not actually in race skis, in the rails, on a groomed trail, but consider this a conversation-opener rather than a definitive answer because I'm a bit too 'Let's stop for a hot chocolate and look at the view' for racing advice!
Re: Base Advice please
Longitudinal dressing of bases is typically done to facilitate wax retention. Here’s what that looks like, just so we’re on the same page…
Can be done with rilling (adding structure), but that’s not done at the manufacturing level. Ever. Different process. Adding structure, or rilling, is temporarily compressing or reforming ptex that is wax saturated. It is different than “dressing” the base, which is done dry (and has semi-permanent effects). Just one example… many different patterned rollers for laying structure.
ALL bases have issues. Let me repeat that… ALL BASES HAVE ISSUES.
Skis are mass produced. They are not precision items, as much as the ski companies would like you to believe they are. Bases are almost never universally flat. High and low spots are common. So are hairy bases (ptex left behind during manufacturing process). This is why your iron won’t uniformly melt wax across the base on a single pass. Nor will the wax have uniform thickness when it cools (some minor blobs left over after a quick scrape). Not a huge issue on a recreational ski but a significant enough defect on a competition ski to warrant correction.
Easy check… buy a machinists bar and check the bases under an oblique light.
Don’t even think about adding structure to a ski intended for cold dry conditions. Structure is for moist or wet conditions only. Its purpose is to give water a place to go to minimize suction. That “place” is off to the side at an oblique angle (really wet conditions) or out the back of the ski (merely moist conditions).
Don’t take my word for it. Do some research… talk to a professional ski tech. Buy a jewellers loup, a machinist bar, maybe a scriver if you want to address a small high spot. [Edit - Swix sells one under the stock number 000036406XE0C8… just do your research on how to use it properly because it can damage a base if misused.]
The safest thing is tonpay the money and have the bases ground professionally. When they come back, go through the same cleaning process you would for a new ski (several steps are required). It will make a difference over any long distance… but only if you follow up with a proper wax job.
Can be done with rilling (adding structure), but that’s not done at the manufacturing level. Ever. Different process. Adding structure, or rilling, is temporarily compressing or reforming ptex that is wax saturated. It is different than “dressing” the base, which is done dry (and has semi-permanent effects). Just one example… many different patterned rollers for laying structure.
Skis are mass produced. They are not precision items, as much as the ski companies would like you to believe they are. Bases are almost never universally flat. High and low spots are common. So are hairy bases (ptex left behind during manufacturing process). This is why your iron won’t uniformly melt wax across the base on a single pass. Nor will the wax have uniform thickness when it cools (some minor blobs left over after a quick scrape). Not a huge issue on a recreational ski but a significant enough defect on a competition ski to warrant correction.
Easy check… buy a machinists bar and check the bases under an oblique light.
Don’t take my word for it. Do some research… talk to a professional ski tech. Buy a jewellers loup, a machinist bar, maybe a scriver if you want to address a small high spot. [Edit - Swix sells one under the stock number 000036406XE0C8… just do your research on how to use it properly because it can damage a base if misused.]
Last edited by Manney on Sat Nov 04, 2023 9:57 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Base Advice please
Go look at the qualifying runs for the ITI. Long distances… shortest distances are ~100 miles (The Drift and the Fat Pursuit are the only two ITI qualifying races in the West… and even those have eligibility criteria that need to be met before entering). Anyone skiing those distances and events better get their skis tuned to within an inch of their life (and maybe bring a support crew, one of which knows their way around a waxing bench).
Everyone is their own wizard tho. So if they want to skip the prep because they don’t have time, they’ll end up using that time (and more) pushing planks thru the snow. Those kind of ppl are better off as recreational rock skiers. Cheaper, less worrisome. Chuck them in the truck after a sesh, pull them out a week later and lay down some orange tracks until the rusty edges clean themselves up. No crime in that… it’s a legitimate approach to skiing. But it’s not going to get anyone remotely close to meeting the qualification standard for the ITI.
Everyone is their own wizard tho. So if they want to skip the prep because they don’t have time, they’ll end up using that time (and more) pushing planks thru the snow. Those kind of ppl are better off as recreational rock skiers. Cheaper, less worrisome. Chuck them in the truck after a sesh, pull them out a week later and lay down some orange tracks until the rusty edges clean themselves up. No crime in that… it’s a legitimate approach to skiing. But it’s not going to get anyone remotely close to meeting the qualification standard for the ITI.
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