Tip Repair on Asnes Ski

[JohnSKepler]

When I say, repair, I don't mean there's really a problem. Yet.

The ski is an Asnes FT62X. The tip isn't split but it isn't... like it was. You know, baby's first scratch. Maybe a tiny spot on one side of the cutout is a little compressed that looks like it could lead, in the future, to some delamination. Being unfamiliar with this equipment is it best to:

1) FIX IT! FIX IT NOW!!!
2) Fix it
3) Don't worry about it until it gets worse[/list]

Recommendations on repair are welcome. I do have some ridiculously strong and robust Scotch Weld epoxies...

I do understand that the tips will get dinged and I've no problem with that. I've just learned that a stich in time saves nine. I've also noticed that these aren't the heaviest built skis either so maybe I shouldn't push it?

Is it advisable to put tip protectors on this kind of ski? If so, can anyone recommend a brand/style?

[Stephen]

A picture would make it easier to answer the question.
But, if you have the epoxy and it’s just a nick, in wouldn’t hurt to put a spot of epoxy on there, just to bandage over the compromised material.

The biggest concern is exposed wood core and keeping water out of that, but it doesn’t sound like the damage has exposed wood.

[beeeweee]

When I bought my pair of MR48, it arrived with some cosmetic damage from shipping and I shared photos with Asnes. They were able to assess and advise on next steps to handle with the retailer from which I bought the skis.

If in doubt, you can reach out to Asnes support.

[JohnSKepler]

Pics of the ski. The damage is very minimal but it is the kind of damage that can grow all by itself.

[Stephen]

Oh yeah, this is easy.

If you care about cosmetics, you can tape off the areas around the damage, so no epoxy gets on anything beyond the repair (although tape, and epoxy, may not stick well to the ptex base or plastic top sheet, which is good, because it would make it easy to pick off any excess, after the epoxy cures).

Work some quality epoxy (not fast set) back in there with a needle or something so all the glass laminate is saturated (it will not take much epoxy — a drop or two).
Not necessary, but if you then warm it up a little with a heat gun / hair dryer, that will lower the viscosity of the epoxy and help it really saturate everything (this will shorten your working time with the epoxy).
Then, have a way to hold it all together.
One idea for holding / clamping the pieces together while the epoxy cures is to use some kind of plastic wrap over the repair to compress it.
Or, you could put a small piece of plastic wrap over the repair, then a small piece of foam on top of that, and then a bunch of masking tape over that to compress.
You get the idea — you’ll come up with a way to compress over that shape to hold the pieces together while the epoxy cures.
You could do a dry run first to make sure the technique works.
It will be as good as new!

[JohnSKepler]

@Stephen, thanks for the advice. I've got the procedure all worked out in my head.

I'll document with a photo-essay so that anyone looking to do this kind of repair can find it on the World Famous Telemark Talk Forum!

[boby13]

My FT's did the same as yours right from the first ride. After about 10 outings they were all chipped so I epoxied the tips and now they are tuffer than ever.

I do believe that Asnes skis are very fragile. I've seen a lot of delamination pictures on this forum. Bot top sheet on my Ingstads delaminated at the tips on the same day because of a thin breakable crust.

My fischer 88s got way more abuse and I don't think they will ever delaminate... Before Asnes I thought delaminations belonged to the 20th century

[beeeweee]

Epoxy can be annoying to work with, especially when working with small amounts since it depends on mixing two parts to the proper ratio to get things to set properly.

Another option is to use silicone glue. There’s no mixing needed since it’s one part and the glue will seal the gap like caulking for your bathroom. Silicone glue normally cures with ambient humidity. Just give it a day or two and it will set and give you a proper seal without having to deal with epoxy.

[Harry31]

Hello,

I have never tested silicone glue, but it can be a good option. Thanks for the suggestion.

[JohnSKepler]

So, this is how I repaired the skis.

Gathered materials:
Epoxy - the 'glue'. I had some of this 3M ScotchWeld 405. Like Elwood said: "Strong stuff."
Foil - for mixing the epoxy on. No reason to use a mixing tip for such a small amount
Wood strip - for mixing the epoxy on the foil
Dental Pick - for applying the epoxy in the delamination
Wax Paper - to keep the poly foam from sticking to the epoxy (I'm not a dentist. I keep a few of these around for...)
High Density Polyurethane Foam - to clamp down on the epoxy
Clamp - to clamp it all together

Here is the ski with the epoxy applied. I used the dental pick to work it down into the split. I found it extended away from the tip farther than I thought. Not very deep though.

I wrapped the wax paper around the fix then the poly foam around that and clamped it all down. The stiff foam will apply even pressure across surface irregularities, such as the lip at the edge of the ski. I didn't want to clamp it super hard or it could squeeze out too much of the epoxy. Let it sit for the universal cure time, 'overnight'.

The repaired spot. I'm satisfied with the look. The wax paper and foam did exactly what I wanted them to do. We'll see how it holds. I wonder if I ought to mix up a little more and just coat the exposed edges. Is that what you did, @boby13? They do feel a bit on the fragile side, which of course is a tradeoff for them being really, really light weight!