Kick Wax on Alpine Skis

[BigJohnS]

I was wondering if anybody with more knowledge on using kick wax would know how well putting kick wax on an alpine ski would work. There's a small hill near where I live that was recently logged and it opened up some fun little ski runs that are short but have a decent pitch. The snow depth is often not great so I was looking for a cheap ski that I could use and not really care about getting damaged. I have an old pair of K2 four r skis that currently have alpine bindings on them but are rarely used. I was thinking I could mount some 3 pin bindings on them and ski them with a pair of Scarpa T4 boots.
It's my understanding that kick wax might not work well on an alpine ski has a softer camber than an xc ski. I would only need to travel about 1-2 miles on relatively flat logging roads though to get to the hill and am not looking to go super fast. My main goal is to have fun on the downhill lapping the small hill.
Any insight into the effectiveness of kick wax on alpine skis for this use case would be greatly appreciated.

[Stephen]

Maybe something like this would be a good option?
https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/e ... cker-50mm/

Or this…
https://varuste.net/en/p100219/colltex- ... ncehmL302M

Would save you the hassle of trying to get the wax right for your conditions, but would require transitions (put on / take off).

[FourthCoast]

Any insight into the effectiveness of kick wax on alpine skis for this use case would be greatly appreciated.

I suppose I have a little experience now. You can absolutely use kick wax on alpine skis to move across the snow and up small hills. It also works OK on steeper hills if you have room to traverse up at a low angle.

This is one important thing: Kick wax does not stick to glide wax. Maybe it looks like it does, sort of, but don't try it. You will not get any kick. Strip all the glide wax off, put polar on the ski tip to tail and then put something that is right for the conditions on most of the base of the ski, starting under your toes.

LilCliffy shared all the secrets here:

LilCliffy's Nordic Backcountry Touring Waxing

[BigJohnS]

Would save you the hassle of trying to get the wax right for your conditions, but would require transitions (put on / take off).

I will be messing around on stuff with a fairly short elevation change so I don't really want to deal with taking skins on and off. I would rather deal with the waxing and save money plus the time when I'm out in the woods.

[BigJohnS]

Any insight into the effectiveness of kick wax on alpine skis for this use case would be greatly appreciated.

I suppose I have a little experience now. You can absolutely use kick wax on alpine skis to move across the snow and up small hills. It also works OK on steeper hills if you have room to traverse up at a low angle.

This is one important thing: Kick wax does not stick to glide wax. Maybe it looks like it does, sort of, but don't try it. You will not get any kick. Strip all the glide wax off, put polar on the ski tip to tail and then put something that is right for the conditions on most of the base of the ski, starting under your toes.

LilCliffy shared all the secrets here:

LilCliffy's Nordic Backcountry Touring Waxing

So your saying don't use any glide wax and apply the corked on kick wax underfoot?

[BigJohnS]

Also, another question. Would a 3-pin without a cable and Scarpa T4s be enough to control the skis well? They aren't very wide and I don't think they have metal but they are alpine skis with a decent amount of sidecut.

[エイダン.シダル]

I sure hope so. I took an old pair of too thin, a bit short, parabolic alpine skis, ripped off the bindings for Voile cable telemarks, going to fart around with my surplus Alico Snow March boots. The setup on surplus Kahru skis with nought sidecut turned for shite, at least with my skill.

I inherited some BD kickers, so that's for longer pitches. Also have full skins from other skis that were stolen. It's a dog's breakfast, but if I love it, I'll invest.

My regular skiing is modest XCd on Gammes, or Fischer 88s, NNN BC; or stuck with the family on the lift served, alpine.

[jalp]

Also, another question. Would a 3-pin without a cable and Scarpa T4s be enough to control the skis well? They aren't very wide and I don't think they have metal but they are alpine skis with a decent amount of sidecut.

The answer to this simple question has more to do with you, your expectations and willingness to endure a few experiments and possibly some minor discomfort. I'd go for it if I already had the setup that you mentioned. Cables aren't always needed with plastic boots but I do like to have that option. Sounds like it could be great fun!

Regarding kick wax: The advice above from @FourthCoast is good stuff.

In your original post, you mentioned skiing a recently logged area. Be careful in those spots. A foot of snow can easily hide some nasty things like downed limbs, stumps, rocks, etc. I like to see about 3 feet of coverage with consolidation in areas like that and even then I'm cautious as to what is buried there. I've had a few knee to tree stump close calls.

[BigJohnS]

The answer to this simple question has more to do with you, your expectations and willingness to endure a few experiments and possibly some minor discomfort. I'd go for it if I already had the setup that you mentioned. Cables aren't always needed with plastic boots but I do like to have that option. Sounds like it could be great fun!

Regarding kick wax: The advice above from @FourthCoast is good stuff.

In your original post, you mentioned skiing a recently logged area. Be careful in those spots. A foot of snow can easily hide some nasty things like downed limbs, stumps, rocks, etc. I like to see about 3 feet of coverage with consolidation in areas like that and even then I'm cautious as to what is buried there. I've had a few knee to tree stump close calls.

I will try to find some bindings for cheap so the investment is minimal as I already have the skis so they won't cost me anything. I guess if it doesn't work out I'll just have some extra bindings. Any recommendations for a good 3-pin binding for the T4s that's not too pricey?
Thanks for the warning about the stumps. I actually discovered the area because I was mountain biking there so I have a pretty good idea of what the obstacles are like. I plan to stay to the logging roads when the cover is thin and then head to the cleared areas when they fill in.

[jalp]

@BigJohnS Any of the later Voile 3 pin or Rotteffella Super Telemark bindings would be a decent choice. Go for the cable option if you find some in your price range. Definitely avoid bindings with the old wire bails. They were designed for lighter boots with thinner duck bills and will fail if used with plastic boots.