Post
by Stephen » Wed Oct 13, 2021 4:20 pm
I have installed several pairs of these bindings.
Before starting, I looked for a jig to buy, but was not able to find one.
I am not a "well, that's good enough" sort of person (in other words, neurotic, OCD, perfectionist, ...)
I always stress out about drilling holes in skis, and did once really make a mistake, but life goes on.
To mount the bindings, I:
1. Put tape on the ski top sheet, where the bindings will mount;
2. Mark the balance point of the skis (they will likely be different between the two skis, so I average the located between the two skis);
3. Mark the centerline of the ski in front of front screw and behind back screw;
3.a. (Measure center of ski referencing the base of the ski, not the top or sidewalls of the ski);
4. Using the above two marks, draw a straight line down the center of the ski;
5. Tape the paper template to the ski, lining up the balance point marks and centerline marks that are on the template with the marks you have already made on the tape applied in step #1;
6. Use something with a sharp point (awl, center pinch, pointy knife blade) to mark (indent) the drill locations;
- I then use a small drill bit (1/16") to drill the first holes (be sure to tape the drill bits so you know the proper depth, i.e. when to stop drilling.
- Compare depth marked on drill bit to the ski to visually confirm that you will not drill through base of ski).
- Sometimes (often) the first holes I drill are not exactly centered in the location marked on the paper template.
- By using a small drill bit first, I am able to adjust the final hole to be closer to the specified location.
- I usually use progressively larger bits before drilling the final hole.
- The fiberglass strands in the ski layup tend to push the drill bit off location, so the above is how I work around this. With a jig, the drill bit is locked in the proper location and can't wander.
- Also, be careful to drill the holes square to the ski surface -- it's easy to tip one way or the other when doing this by hand.
- I also use a countersink to VERY slightly campher the final hole, so that there is less bulging of the top sheet material when the screw is inserted (this is quite optional).
- It also helps to have the proper #3 PoziDriv driver bit to install the screws. A #3 Phillips will work, but you must be very careful to not let the bit spin out on the screw head.
- I then use a wooden match or toothpick to work polyurethane glue into the screw hole. You don't want to fill the hole with glue -- just make sure the inner surfaces have a coat of glue, to seal the wood from moisture. If the hole is full of glue, the screw will compressively force it into the ski core and might possibly case delamination (maybe I'm just making this up, but it seems theoretically possible).
- When tightening the screws, I progressively tighten them, going around a final time to make sure they have reached the point where they stop turning, at the same time, being extra careful to not strip the screw out -- it's a by-feel thing gained by tightening lots of screws.
I don't mean to make this sound intimidating or beyond what you can do, just trying to point out the details to pay attention to.
Or, have someone mount them for you. If you do, I would first confirm they have the proper jig.
