breathable shell jacket? is there one that lets sweat out but keeps you dry

[bauerb]

I know this is the claim of most shells made from Goretex etc. but I am interested in what people are actually using and finding success with. we all know that skiing uphill generates alot of heat and perspiration. some days its snowing and I want to stay dry( from the outside), I also want wind protection. I generate alot of heat going up, and my shell is not letting the moisture out. what are people using that has proven itself in real life as an effective, uninsulated, breathable shell? I'm not really interested in marketing claims, just real life success. thanks

[CwmRaider]

I just use several layers of wool and possibly a torso only vest on top. I only use goretex in extremely windy or rainy situations. I put on a down jacket in extended halts.
Wool can be quite heavy and snow sticks to it but it seems to make it easier for me to regulate my temperature.
I can't stand shell jackets during intensive exercise.

[fisheater]

I am looking at purchasing on old surplus wool jacket (un-used). I know my surplus wool pants breath, are wind proof up to about 35-40 mph as the only time I have felt wind was going downhill fast on a high wind day. My pants are also quite reasonably water proof for winter skiing, they bead water.
So that will probably be my solution, as my soft shell doesn't really breath. Hard shells just vent well in my opinion. I can shake quite a bit of condensation out of a Gore Tex shell.

[Montana St Alum]

My sons swear by Fjallraven style jackets, waxed in strategic locations - top of hood, shoulders and such.
And wool.

I scored a jacket years ago made of Schoeller C_Change material that is amazing, but the material became too expensive and isn't made any more in technical gear, that I'm aware of. It's a temperature specific pore size. Cool, and it closes, warm and pore sizes increase. I can actually feel wind going through it but it keeps me dry.

From Schoeller
“The c_change membrane is set to a predetermined temperature range. As soon as the climate inside a garment is warmer—due to physical activity or higher surrounding temperatures—the membrane reacts. Its flexible polymer structure opens and allows water vapour to escape quickly to the outside air. As soon as the body begins producing less heat and therefore less moisture, the polymer structure reverts to its original position. During this process, body heat is stored and protection from cold builds up.”

Westcomb (a Canadian company) made jackets with them for a while, but now their high end stuff is eVent, I think. I wish I'd bought them when they were available, in retrospect.


I would target an eVent style membrane/fabric now. Dry Q Elite is a licensed knock-off, I think and is very good. Waterproof ratings and breathability ratings should give an idea, the higher the breathability in grams per square meter per 24 hours, the better.


Everything is dependent on the differential in moisture on both sides of the membrane, I believe, so where you are most fabrics will work better than in areas where it's very humid. If you get something used, be sure to renew the DWR (durable water resistant) finish so that you don't "wet out".

[fgd135]

On really cold and windy days, or on days with lots of falling snow, I wear a lightwt. two-layer Mountain Hardware Gore-Tex shell jacket over various fleece layers. The shell has pit zips and other zips so there are options to increase/decrease ventilation. It keeps me dry enough most of the time, if I pay attention to layering properly, I stay comfortable.
I'm not too familiar with other waterproof/breathable fabrics. I do sometimes use a very light nylon windshell in spring conditions, which is not actually as windproof as the gtx, or as waterproof, but is ultralight.

[Smitty]

+1 for Fjallraven. I have the un-insulated Skogsö shell. I run hot, and have not had success with membrane tech in the past (although I have not tried the highest of high end). I find the Fjallraven G-1000 breathes and wicks well, and I like the ability for wax treatment up top as MSU mentioned.

[1EyedJack]

PIT ZIPS
Find a shell Gortex jacket with PIT ZIPS.
They don't seem to popular these days. Mine is a Moonstone when it was made in USA, bought it about 20 yrs ago.
Only used for skiing and still holds up.

(Moonstone is no longer)

[Woodserson]

Good topic for @bgregoire

To add to the above, I would argue that even in snow, it's pretty terrible if you are actually working hard. The interior of mine gets frosted up quick when I'm working the bumps out here in the humid east. It's better in the Rockies, I bet.

This is why when it's under 25f I'm 80% of the time in my flannel lined Carhartts. Breath well, warm, cuts the wind, and I don't get sweaty and wet. Sacrilegious, I know. Fleece or wool tops, layered depending on conditions and activity. Shell when I stop to cut the wind. Puffy otherwise, which still breaths quite well

Fjallraven works well due to the cotton panels in strategic locations. Bgreg will advise the Keb, iirc.

[Franz]

I've been using a Marmot Driclime jacket over a light weight fleece quarter zip shirt for years. Good insulation down to about 0 degrees F. Perspiration is wicked away. Very light weight. Wind proof. I have applied Nikwax several time - not the most waterproof jacket but, I don't ski in the rain much. Less than $100.

[Musk Ox]

Good topic for @bgregoire

/snip

Woods this is precisely the Lundhags philosophy... I didn't know the physics of it until you posted that. I knew that if the waterproof outer of your membrane's saturated, you might as well have a completely impermeable shell made of actual rubber and leather. This is a real issue for boots more than jackets, of course. GoreTex membranes get a real hammering on your feet and your boots are finished when they fail. Lundhags are waterproof and completely repairable.

Actually GoreTex generally is... hmm. To prevent saturation/ general clogging, outers are sealed in durable water repellent (DWR), most of which are really, really terrible for the water table.

Fjellräven to the rescue here. I think I'm right in saying that Fjellräven have a proprietary DWR and fabrics designed to be ecologically not awful. My hunting friend likes their fabrics because they're designed to be quieter than GoreTex, too... another win for the Swedes.

I've got a super expensive Norrøna Recon jacket with GoreTex Pro which I don't use. I much prefer my Royal Air Force surplus 'foul weather' coat because it's long and blue and indestructible.