How would you repair a cracked duckbill 50 miles into the wilderness?

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Where was this and what were you doing? I would love to know.

Just a long tour with my girlfriend on the US-Canada border (the Boundary Waters).

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But to be honest, you probably would have faired just as well without doing a thing. You see, the bail compresses the sole in the binding keeping the boot together so to speak, so i doubt the duckbill would ever break off before you make it home.

The outsole of the toe not only cracked but split and fell off entirely. The midsole was unaffected, but no outsole meant no pinholes and no contact. Had I done nothing, as you suggest, I wouldn’t have been able to ski. There wasn’t enough sole for the bail to clamp down on and secure the boot, even with a shim, even with a strap over top. A heel strap or cable was required in order to kick.

Here’s a closer photo of the toe:




Here’s a video demonstrating how easy it is to rip the boot out of the binding with the bail closed all the way and then again with the bail closed plus a strap (I didn’t have a long enough Voile strap for this test, but the nylon webbing strap is close):

If you are planning a long expedition on mostly flat ground, polar expedition for instace, consider going the NNN-BC route. The bindings will usually fail first in that system as opposed to a NN 75m setup where the boot usually fails first. As you'd probably be hauling a pulk in that type a trip, an extra pair of NNN-BC bindings and a screwdriver is a relatively cheap light and easy back-up.

While NNN-BC is now the most popular choice for, say, Greenland crossings, the NN 75mm still has its place. You can’t repair a ripped-out toe bar on a Polar A/P/S NNN-BC boot, for example. Whereas with NN 75mm, you can repair or jerry-rig to a serviceable degree virtually any malfunction in the boot or binding. Even with the completely ripped out toe piece on my NN 75mm boots, I managed to string a heel strap that had almost no consequence on my kick or glide. I even herringboned up steep portages towing two pulks. The only problem was not bringing stronger cordage as it eventually abraded against the sharp edges of the binding slots.

This robust nature of the NN 75mm design is precisely why Børge Ousland and Mike Horn reverted back to it for their most recent—and mindblowing—traverse of the Arctic Ocean by way of the North Pole.

Really appreciate your input!

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Ahhh... what else but duct tape. Wrap a half roll on your poles. Acts as a second grip. Indepensible.

I needed a functional repair for multi-day use over a long period. While I don’t think duct tape would’ve actually worked, even if I had been able to completely tape my boot to the ski, this would’ve been impractical for long-term travel and camping.

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To those commenting about cables: I agree, and I share the concern about weight. I’m going to experiment this winter with 3mm Dyneema cord and report back on both stretch and abrasion. One meter of 3mm Dyneema cord weighs 5 grams and is stronger than steel wire.

[Stephen]

You may already know this, but, because of how slippery it is, Dyneema doesn’t hold knots well. Stitching might be a connection option. It does stand up to abrasion well.

[fgd135]

To those commenting about cables: I agree, and I share the concern about weight. I’m going to experiment this winter with 3mm Dyneema cord and report back on both stretch and abrasion. One meter of 3mm Dyneema cord weighs 5 grams and is stronger than steel wire.

Both the Voile 3pin/cable and the new Rottefella 3pin/cable have pivot points on the wings for cable hooks. This would permit use of an emergency cable that would not be subject to as much abrasion as when you used the toestrap slot in the Rottefella. You might consider using either one and just leaving the heavy cables at home, and instead bring along some kind of lightwt strap or cord to thread thru those pivots.

[Woodserson]

Try to get a Voile strap, the elastic tension in the strap will help in this situation a bit better- I think... and then I would double up with paracord around the heel like you did. My opinion the Rott ST if the better binding for this kind of hack, but FGD135 has a good tip too, the Voile 3pin Cable will have the pivot points for the cable and can be used as attachment points for cord. But no slot for the strap.

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@fgd135 @Woodserson

Excellent advice! Didn't even think about those attachment points solving the cord abrasion problem. I guess I'm just trying to avoid having to buy an entirely new binding merely to get those attachment points.

On a related note: nylon paracord seemed to stretch too much, whereas Dyneema might not stretch enough. How important is having the rebound of springs for kick and glide? Aside from technique, I'm worried about cord stretching too much and not rebounding.

I'm really looking for a sturdy 200+ mile repair if the same thing were to happen again even earlier in a trip.

[bgregoire]

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First off my bad about "you probably would have faired just as well without doing a thing". I was wrong (Wished I had seen the full damage of your boots from the start!). I've mostly dealt with torn (cracked) injected molded vibram sola and as they are not layered tend to hold together a bit longer. I'm going to reply to some other comments now and try to emphasize my point (sorry if I can't let go).

Prevention is KEY. If you're exposing yourself like this to extreme conditions, best to go out with the best gear in good shape.

Your experience with these old Alico boots might have left you scarred. In essence, we are looking for trouble counting on old corrupt gear like this in extending winter camping situations (i know, I have done that same mistake).

You know, they recommend car rubber tires be swapped out after 6 years of age, regardless of use. 10 years is the absolute max: "The rubber ages, the oils and binding chemicals dry out and the tire loses flexibility." We cannot expect better from old rubber soles, especially with the strain they go through in the 75mm system.

I have a firm belief that if you start off your trip with new boots, good new boots (the norwegian stitched ones like Andrew Refugio or Alfa polar advance), you won't need any repair kit. Sure you can bring one, but you won't need it.

Another point i'd like to make is the "NNN-BC boot fail at the mounting bar", its become more of urban legend at this point. I know it has happened to a few, but this is a long while back, I'm quite certain this was addressed by Rottafella). And again, if you leave on a trip with a new pair of boots and use them in their intended setting (nordic backcountry skiing), you will be fine. As previously mentioned, I believe the binding is the weak link in that system (as opposed to 75mm), so an extra pair of NNN-BC bindings is a safe back up solution.

I'd like to add here that I am a huge fan of 75mm binding boots, particularly leathers. It's just not what I would necessarily bring on a long flattist expedition.

Mike Horn & Borge Ousland. Thanks for bringing their use of the 75mm to my attention. Did you ask then why they chose 75mm? I am ready to bet it is not for the reasons you mention (durability and field repair) as much as about boot choice. North Pole expeditions have become more of a ski and swim discipline so to speak. Unlike antarctic expeditions and most overland crossings, a boot that can withstand being soaked is critical to survival. I know of no NNN-BC boot adapted to this but can think of two 75mm boots that can: Scott Excursion & Alfa Polar Advance, combined with closed cell intuition liners. The Excursion is a plastic shell, so it does not absorb water. The Alfa Polar liner in uninsulated and a mix of Cordura and Leather: easy to dry out. Here is what Alfa has to say about it:

"The boot is made in water repellent Cordura with leather reinforcements. No inner lining or padding makes it exceptionally quick drying."

Truly enjoy yourself setting up your field repair. Just keep in mind prevention is key, and the pinnacle of that, to me, means avoiding the repair entirely. That is where I would focus my energy.

I've read various ideas tossed around here, and I think the combination of a new pair of boots and a Voile 3pin cable is probably your best bet (given you're not going for something like the Alfa Polar NNN-BC). Don't worry about the bail failing and bring those cables in your bag/pulk. They are relatively light and a bomber back up if your boots were to fail (which they won't if the rubber is new).

Have fun!

[Cannatonic]

Here is a pic showing one guy's boots - definitely not Excursions, looks like a rubber sole but I can't see the rest of the boots, I wonder what they are? - these guys are living dangerously, what a crazy idea to ski across ice that is breaking up:

https://explorersweb.com/2019/10/01/ous ... -sledding/