Favorite Ski Meets Favorite Binding

[lowangle al]

Well I finely switched the Rivas for 3-p cables on the Vector BCs yesterday. Both bindings were mounted on the HW riser plates which would probably be the same a a Voile Traverse binding. I had the cables adjusted as loose as possible w/o fear of them coming off and they were more active than the Rivas. There was a little more resistance while touring but I don't think it slowed me down. The DH performance was great. I felt they were every bit as good as the Swichbacks that I skied the previous two days.

The thing that I got out of this is how capable the Traverse binding is and it's possible it would have been just as good w/o the riser plates, but don't want to drill more holes in the ski to find out. I wouldn't have any problem mounting them on the Hyper Vectors.

[phoenix]

bgregoire, the Riva's you describe with the grooved plastic base plate are a later version Riva (there were at least four). Earlier models, there was no plate... the cable was shorter, and simply snugged against the front of the toepiece, which angled up slightly.

This all has got me thinking. I have an old pair of K2 Heli Stinx freebies out in the shed; was thinking of putting on a 3 pin, or maybe some BD 03's I have in the parts box. BUT, now I recall I have a pair of the original Riva's, with the spring that clamps around the heel groove (same type clamp as the 3 pin cable, but the spring is integral with the lever mechanism.
Super sleek and retro. I've "customized" these with the toepiece from the later model Riva's; full toebar rather than the 2 little tabs, which dig into the boot soles.
This should make a nice kit with those Heli's; use 'em as a waxable xcd rig for beating about.

[lowangle al]

I just found a pair of skis in my garage with the older rivas with the toe tabs and spring behind the heel. They are mounted on a 12mm riser.

I tried taking them off yesterday but couldn't turn the screws. I was going to put some heat to them with a torch but was going to ask for advice here first.

It's really nice that you can interchange three hole bindings on some of the old risers. Now I have three pairs of HW toe pieces and heel throws that I can mount flat on other skis.

[phoenix]

Lowangle, I've always heated an old #3 phillips (really hot) and held that on the screw for a bit; breaks the glue bond just about every time.I think a soldering iron could work also.I wouldn't heat the binding directly.
In the rare case of a screw that just won't loosen, or the head is stripped: Carefully drill the center of the screw just a little; weaken it till the head of the screw'll pull off with the binding. Then grab the bit of shank with vise grips to unscrew.

[lowangle al]

Lowangle, I've always heated an old #3 phillips (really hot) and held that on the screw for a bit; breaks the glue bond just about every time.I think a soldering iron could work also.I wouldn't heat the binding directly.
In the rare case of a screw that just won't loosen, or the head is stripped: Carefully drill the center of the screw just a little; weaken it till the head of the screw'll pull off with the binding. Then grab the bit of shank with vise grips to unscrew.

That was tough.

[phoenix]

Run into some stubborn screws? Hope it worked out OK for you!

[Struckski]

I came across this ebay listing today. If you look closely, you'll notice that the pins are drilled out, making the bindings a hybrid riva / 3 pin cable / traverse. With a riser, this might be along the lines of what Loangle Al was / is using... Pretty cool.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284533025238?h ... Sw1SBhlYz5

I'd be interested to hear if others have experimented with drilling out the pins...

[freedom glider]

I can see how not having the pins to lock it in would allow for more ‘play’ (lacking a better word to describe it) resulting in a less restrictive foot movement for kick n’ glide.

but isnt that "play" exactly what the cable bindings are intended to eliminate or minimize (in the downhill phase)?

[lowangle al]

I can see how not having the pins to lock it in would allow for more ‘play’ (lacking a better word to describe it) resulting in a less restrictive foot movement for kick n’ glide.

but isnt that "play" exactly what the cable bindings are intended to eliminate or minimize (in the downhill phase)?

The cables help get more pressure towards the tips for one thing. I also like that they help me control an unweighted ski. But yes they will also eliminate some of the slop in the system.

[Lo-Fi]

I can see how not having the pins to lock it in would allow for more ‘play’ (lacking a better word to describe it) resulting in a less restrictive foot movement for kick n’ glide.

but isnt that "play" exactly what the cable bindings are intended to eliminate or minimize (in the downhill phase)?

The cables help get more pressure towards the tips for one thing. I also like that they help me control an unweighted ski. But yes they will also eliminate some of the slop in the system.

I recently took a moment to do an A/B comparison between some Alpina Alaska BC and T4s, with similar skis and on the same slope. I was reminded of just how much difference there is between these two types of boots,

The T4s are so much more laterally and torsionally solid, even with the top buckle on its loosest setting. So even using just a 3-pin binding, the boots deliver categorically greater control. Then add a cable, let alone a hardwire, and the support increases for all of lateral, torsional, and as @lowangle al mentions, general slop and fore/aft aspects.

As discussed earlier in the thread, I favour the original Voile non-3-pin Hardwires (Rottefella Cobra R8 is similar). At minimal tension I find they are easy in/out, no adjustment/fiddle transitions between good range-of-motion-touring and supportive turning:

…If you look closely, you'll notice that the pins are drilled out, making the bindings a hybrid riva / 3 pin cable / traverse

…I'd be interested to hear if others have experimented with drilling out the pins...

I knew someone back in the mid-90s who swore by cutting off the pins of the Voile Traverse type binding. Back then, before the advent of the Hardwires, Voile had the 3-pin cable and the non-3-pin cable, both with the hooked spring cables with back lateral throw.

He pointed out that without the pins, but still keeping the front latch the binding was easier to get in and out of than the 3-pin, stronger than the non-3-pin (shown below), and could accommodate different thickness of toe bill.

I never tried cutting the pins but was always intrigued. I prefer the flex and support of the hardwire bindings to the spring cables which I find a little restrictive, but if I didn’t have my current hoard of non-3-pin Hardwires, I would get some of the current Hardwires(that are 3-pin) and try cutting off the pins.