Skirciak Pirciak wrote:Hi Guys
Many thanks for advices again
I had chance to test flex of skis in the shop
1. When standing on both skis evenly, skis have room under the binding so embedded skin is not in contact with the floor
2. When standing on one food (Glide simulation) there is no space under the skin, skin is with contact with the floor. I know that this is bad, bud retailed told me that floor is not evenly flat. They did not had any even surface...so I dont know whether skis is too soft and one should go for longer ski (185 cm for 70 - 85 kg) or trust company size chart
(Please forgive me Stefan if I am rambling on about stuff you already know! I am a teacher and have learned not to assume anything about a "beginner"'s knowledge...)
What you are describing is a true double-cambered ski that has an effective wax pocket. The intended purpose of true double camber is that the wax/traction pocket can only be fully engaged with the ski fully weighted. An effective wax pocket requires an effective "kick", otherwise, there will be no grip and the skier will slip and slide all over the place. You cannot simply shuffle along on a "properly"-sized double-camber ski- you need to move at a full diagonal stride to fully engage the traction zone of the ski underfoot.
Truly double-cambered skis intended for the groomed track are pretty straight forward: camber and stiffness ranging from pretty mellow "touring" skis that do not require expert technique- to very stiff skis that require and expert technique and a powerful kick. In other words- Classic XC racing ski do not go slow- they are designed to fly!
Double-cambered backcountry touring skis are not so straight forward, because if they are too stiff, it is impossible to effectively engage the wax/traction pocket on soft snow- if the ski is too stiff one simply drives the tip/tail into the snow, without effectively engaging the traction zone.
And the added challenge is that a hard floor does not simulate XC skiing on soft backcountry snow!
I have no experience with the Sporten skis, but I can tell you that skis like the E99 and Gamme 54 are truly double-cambered skis that are finely tuned to be able to grip on soft snow. Does the shop have an E99 Xtralite in stock for you to make a comparison?
As far as the effective pocket on the skis you tested- whether this is "good" or "bad" depends on the ski, the snow conditions and the terrain.
The ski-
If that ski is very stiff it will be great on dense on dense-consolidated snow, but poor on soft snow.
The snow-
What's the snow like that you want to ski on?
The terrain-
Purely cross-country skiing? Flat, gentle terrain? Hilly, terrain with moderate to steep slopes? Or mountainous terrain?
A double-cambered ski with an effective wax/traction pocket is for XC skiing.
That effective traction pocket makes it impossible to evenly-pressure the ski when climbing and downhill skiing.
As a note- a ski with a camber-and-half profile does not have a true double-cambered traction pocket- a camber-and-a-half ski can be evenly pressured- but, unlike a single cambered ski ("Alpine" camber), a camber-and-a-half ski still has a wax/traction pocket that releases from the snow when XC skiing.
I do take my E99 and Gamme 54 into hilly-steep terrain, but I focus on trails, abandoned roads and gentle contours- focusing on covering distance.
If I want to ski steep terrain I take my less cambered skis- camber-and-a-half if I want to cover long distance (e.g. E109/Ingstad)- single camber if I am purely touring for turns (e.g. Annum/Kom/Storetind).
So- please give us some more details. What terrain and snow conditions are you planning on skiing on? (Please forgive me if you have already explained this and I missed it!)
I read on the ski maker sporten webside that
1. Beginners should go for ski based on the company size chart
This confirms my impression of manufactures recommended sizing on a LOT of skis these days. It is excellent to have this level of classification. Most manufacturers have a weight recommendation, but it is unclear what the target skier is with that recommendation.
2. Intermediates should go for 20-30 % stiffer ski (does it mean body weight + 20-30%?)
Although this makes sense- it only works if one has a range of skis to choose from that have varying degrees of stiffness between pairs. Back in the day, skiers went to the shop and ideally picked out a pair of skis based on their weight, skills, and intended use. Did you test a number of different skis? Are the Sporten skis highly variable in stiffness?
3. Experts should go one step stiffer, longer ski
Again this is a classic cross-country ski guideline.
As a comparison- my experience suggests that current Fischer BC-XC skis are incredibly consistent in their camber-flex. I was in a shop recently with my friend helping him buy an E99 Tour- there were several 200cm to choose from and they were all seemingly identical in their camber and flex.
Reports on this site suggest that there is significant variability in flex between pairs of Asnes skis...This is a good thing if you can test/flex multiple pairs before selecting one to buy- a bit of a serious gamble of you are ordering them by mail!
What is not clear for me is how weight in ski size table is defined
Example: 175 cm ski is recommended for person with weight 60 - 75 kg (132 - 165 lbs)
Question: Is it weight of the body (net weight) or should I count the weight of the boots, clothes + maybe some small water bag?
Yes- all weight, including what you are carrying.
Also, I bought Alpina Wyoming boots, what are little bit too tight
WIll they stretch or should I buy half size bigger? Toe is little bit touching the front of the boot
Thank you
SIncerely Stefan
Are you going to be skiing in very cold temperatures? Even if the boot stretches to fit- those boots might not be warm enough in very cold weather.
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