Telemark Talk / Telemark Tips Forum

Dawn.
Twelve inches of fresh cold powder on top of 2 feet of condensed frozen base.

-15C, brilliant clear sky- not a breath of wind.

Kick wax- MAN.

Flying through a snow-covered canopy. EPIC.

Specs of my new love:
• 205cm length.
• Sidecut profile: 82-60-70mm.
• Camber profile: significant, but soft initial camber- low but very stiff second camber.
• Nordic rocker: the tips open up significantly when the camber is fully compressed.
• Flex pattern: moderately stiff. Smooth, soft, round initial flex pattern from point of “Nordic rocker” to tail. “Wax” or traction pocket is somewhat preserved by shallow, stiff, second camber.
• Low profile tip.
• Flat tail.
• Full length, but not wrap-around, metal edge.
• High-quality, sintered base.

Grip wax in the backcountry- on a ski designed for XCD skiing on fresh soft snow- WICKED.

Supposed to remove the grip wax before applying the “Easy”-skin. Doesn't sound "easy"- not going to use it much.

Improvements?
1) Broad, raised tip.
2) Less sidecut.

Sounds like a great ski! Glad you found the one...

Well I am in love- I must say...

But I haven't broken in the Ingstad yet...

I am also a bit awe-inspired by the E-99...

On deep fresh snow, the flex pattern of the E-109 outperforms the E-99. But in every other context?

Well there has to be a reason these skis sell well in Norway...

Less sidecut though? I think that would detract from it's balance as a cross-country, dowhill ski, no?

I've never removed kick wax before applying kicker skins. Also never had a kicker skin peel up on me. I could see it being a problem if you are globbing the kick wax on or if there's a bunch of debris in your kick wax. Otherwise it's a non-issue. Just make sure you remove all of the water droplets and snow/ice from the area beneath the skin.

MikeK wrote: Less sidecut though? I think that would detract from it's balance as a cross-country, dowhill ski, no?

I hear you man.

But here's the thing- what is the turning radius of a 205cm E-109- or even a 195cm?

These skis are not "easy" to turn- despite the amount of sidecut. What I mean is that they are not designed to carve short-radius turns.

These skis are a lot of fun on the downhill- but, it has nothing to do with the sidecut.

These skis are fun down-hill because they are VERY light, snappy and responsive. I can easily make short-radius turns with even the 205cm- because they are light and responsive enough that I can make them turn- quite "easily" actually!

Don't get me wrong- there is nothing more wonderous than a long-radius telemark, on a long skis- and I make one whenever I get the chance. BUT- if I were to simply ride my long xcountry skis, weighting the edge, and waiting for them to "come around", I WILL HIT THE TREE BEFORE THEY COME AROUND.

My point is this- and it is strongly related to your "striding turns" thread- if you have to stride/step/jump your way through Nordic turns to get a xcountry ski to turn, that sidecut is doing nothing for you. AND- if it is not really an asset, why not gain more traction and flotation- and more efficient xcountry tracking?

I am finding that the E-99 is every bit as fun on the down-hill as the E-109, because it so incredibly light and reponsive. And it has even less sidecut than the E-109.

If the E-109 is a better XCD than the E-99 it is because of its easier to control flex- not the degree of sidecut.

As an awe-inspiring example of this- remember that video of Elder Gamme doing short-radius power jump telemarks through dense, heavy wet snow? He wasn't using the sidecut of those Gamme 54s at all...

anrothar wrote:I've never removed kick wax before applying kicker skins. Also never had a kicker skin peel up on me. I could see it being a problem if you are globbing the kick wax on or if there's a bunch of debris in your kick wax. Otherwise it's a non-issue. Just make sure you remove all of the water droplets and snow/ice from the area beneath the skin.

Cool- very good to hear man. Both Fischer and Asnes are highly recommending removing kick wax before applying the skin. I shall have to ignore it!

I should note my kick wax method for reference.

1. Crayon on a light, even layer.
2. Cork in a circular buffing motion to ensure it is evenly spread out.
3. Cork back and forth over the length of the applied wax to smooth it to a glassy consistency.

4. Repeat the above process with all layers of kick wax.

It should be smoothed out/corked to the point where you can only see it if you tilt the ski so the light hits the wax just right.

With you again- I prefer my kick wax to look like glide wax by the time I am done corking it.

Maybe the sidecut thing is best discussed in another thread as it relates to many skis, not just these... but...

Perhaps now in new, deep, fresh snow it has less significance (and probably less impact on tracking) but when spring rolls around, or a thaw if you get one, if those skis are anything like the S Bound 78, try them on corn snow.... whoooo boy!

They won't really "carve" like you can with Alpine skis, but if you just lean on them and ride them they put down two nice , clean lines... they'll smear and skid if you force them, but if you just ride their natural flex and radius, they'll edge nicely. I can't really seem to get that to happen with the real DC skis that have less sidecut... not sure if it's the camber, or the cut, but it's probably both.

Anyway, I suspect the crown version you have will make a great spring ski.

You are right though, for quick turns, you just can't do it without unweighting and swinging the skis.