Telemark Talk / Telemark Tips Forum

Hello, bought an old pair of skis for rock skis with 75mm binding because who knows if we will have winter this year. Relatively soft flex, relatively minor sidecut, will use for a bit of downhill in thin or very thin snowcover.

Have never used a binding like this, are there any tips or tricks? Should I have the one spring tighter than the other side, make them even when the lever is closed, does it matter? They don't seem to move all that freely, i.e. seems like rubbing at the attachment point
... is this an issue?

When I closed the cable latch on old used Alico Ski March the sole separated. Am hoping cement will repair, but I notice all 75mm leathers have the vibram sole glued on to mid-sole(?) or whatever is just above the heel groove, so it seems like the pressure will continue to cause force and separation, no?

Lastly, how to get rid of significant edge rust? Just during the tuning, or spray with some oil and use a wire brush first, or what?

I *think* contact cement is the best bet for the heels.
That might be what was used, originally.
Tends to dry out over a long period of time, hence the separation.
Spread a full, even, wet (but not heavy) coat on both surfaces, as far back as you can, then, while still wet, close and work the two pieces around a little bit, open, and let dry until does not stick to finger. Close and apply good pressure for full contact.

You could not worry about the rust and let the snow work it off?
Otherwise, lightly filing might be best. Or, maybe fine steel wool, but will tend to round the edges?

mca80 wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 16, 2023 4:08 pm

Have never used a binding like this, are there any tips or tricks? Should I have the one spring tighter than the other side, make them even when the lever is closed, does it matter? They don't seem to move all that freely, i.e. seems like rubbing at the attachment point
... is this an issue?

I have the springs adjusted so that cable centers when the lever is closed, but I don't think it makes such a big difference. The official manual says that if the lever doesn't stay closed, the lever side spring is too tight compared to opposite side.

It's also mentioned in the manual that you can reduce the attachment hook rubbing by bending the hook so that it naturally points to right direction. I would use needle-nose pliers or, preferably, a thin-jawed adjustable wrench. You need two, but the other one can be wider.

One trick I haven't seen mentioned anywhere is that if you adjust the spring tightness carefully, they will stay in the heel groove when opened. That way you can decrease the binding activity without having to take them off. Just a flip the switch depending on if you want better kick and glide or downhill performance.

mca80 wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 16, 2023 4:08 pm

Lastly, how to get rid of significant edge rust? Just during the tuning, or spray with some oil and use a wire brush first, or what?

If it's really significant, and also if they are very heavily used, I would get them sharpened. That should do it. If there's just surface rust I would just send it and worry about sharpening only if they seem dull.

To your sole separation issue I don't have any advice. I just want to say that I really like my army surplus Ski Marches with this binding and a fjellski.

Thank you both, good info. Just need snow now.

I would take a gummy stone to those edges first:
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/6011-494/ ... d_source=1

Otherwise, I would sharpen them properly (ie I would not go at them freehand with a file).

Hi, speaking only as a lover of leather boots (hiking, work type) I would say an extra secure way of reattaching your heel would be to have a cobbler use "clinch" nails. These are soft nails driven up through the heel into the boot. Due to their soft nature when they hit the wooden last used to hold the boot during repair, they bend over locking the heel in place.
You could also potentially use short, but coarsely threaded brass or stainless screws driven down into the heel from inside the boot. The insole would likely cover the heads enough to not be problematic.
Contact cement as well as either of the above.

Good luck!