Garmont Touring leather boot

[ebalaytung]

Does anybody have experience with it?
I did not find much information on it.
How's the ankle support? Durability? I'd like to use it with S bounds 112, would it be enough? Some turns, but nothing crazy. Would it have enough duckbill thickness for the tele binding (not a thin touring version of it)?

Here's an Imgur picture:

[fisheater]

In my opinion that is plenty boot for an S-112, especially for touring with some turns. The S-112 isn’t a torsionally rigid ski, so it doesn’t take a lot of boot to over power the ski. That being said I’m willing to bet there will be times that boot will get kicked around in manky conditions. I think for most conditions that boot would be a fine match, and I would want to be on a more powerful ski and boot in other conditions
Good luck

[ebalaytung]

In my opinion that is plenty boot for an S-112, especially for touring with some turns. The S-112 isn’t a torsionally rigid ski, so it doesn’t take a lot of boot to over power the ski. That being said I’m willing to bet there will be times that boot will get kicked around in manky conditions. I think for most conditions that boot would be a fine match, and I would want to be on a more powerful ski and boot in other conditions
Good luck

thank you, Fish!

[fgd135]

That's the same basic boot as the Alico Ski March, for a comparison. Will be fine with tele 3 pins or light cables.

[TallGrass]

Does anybody have experience with it?
I did not find much information on it.
How's the ankle support? Durability? I'd like to use it with S bounds 112, would it be enough?

It looks similar to my Merrils. Works fine for 3-pin, though it's nice to have a binding like mine with more than one latch point to clamp down with. The wider the ski, the harder it gets to edge as the "lever" gets longer side-to-side. The flipside is it's pretty forgiving in a spill as in it will give a lot.



I recommend using them with gaiters and adding a stainless ring to the front lace for it to hook too. I square knot my lace ends after tying to keep the boot snug, and the gaiters keeps the laces from freezing up.

Do your cleaning and leather care (mink oil, sno-seal, ... a rabbit hole of its own) when you get first get them, don't delay, and again at the beginning and end of each "snow season." Leather is like skin, it needs to be kept clean and moisturized, and since it is "dead", once it starts to crack there's no reversing it.

Check the bottoms for 3-pin holes' condition. Mount them in the skis (no foot in them) to see where the pins engage, and consider marking (paint, tape, ...) the binding so when you mount up in the snow you have a visual reference to make sure you're dead on, not too far in, nor too far out, before clamping down. My Rotefellas has stamped rib that I use as a reference.

Also, remember there is a Left and a Right binding. Mine have arrow cutouts (see photo) on the outside edge of the binding, some use a foot logo, others add L or R stickers.

Get some velcro straps like the red Swix ones shown in the photo to hold the bases together for storage and transport, or DIY such as these: https://telemarktalk.com/viewtopic.php? ... 15&p=57079

[JB TELE]

Controlling the 112, the boot is one factor. But the main thing is snow conditions. In any leather boot you are going to have a great time in soft snow conditions with the 112. When you take it into firm conditions, no leather boot will be able to hold it on edge. You will feel super out of control on hard stuff.