Last Year’s and this Year’s Grip Wax Experiments

[freedom glider]

The application technique is key, I find.

catching up on this thread with visions of upcoming snow dancing in my head.

is "application technique" gained thru trial and error on one's particular trails? or are there basic principles besides "apply wax and cork" that are somewhat universal?

thanks for the great info everypne above

[Woodserson]

The application technique is key, I find.

catching up on this thread with visions of upcoming snow dancing in my head.

is "application technique" gained thru trial and error on one's particular trails? or are there basic principles besides "apply wax and cork" that are somewhat universal?

thanks for the great info everypne above

Read it and weep
https://www.enjoywinter.com/amp/ski-wax ... oslo-kick/

Application: The key to applying Oslo is many thin layers. To apply, push the tin of wax straight down on the kick zone of ski with light pressure twist quickly and remove. This will leave a small spot of wax on the ski. Repeat until the kick zone has a thin layer of oslo applied. Smooth and warm with a synthetic cork. Apply more layers as necessary.

[fisheater]

As of now I am only trying one new wax this year. Start Oslo Blue is my new experiment for the rather simple reason that there were times Oslo Purple was a bit too much of a good thing. I had a few sticking problems. They weren’t sticking as in build up and no glide, but as in throwing chunks, but still moving pretty good. I’ll try Oslo Blue, and will report.
BLACK FRIDAY ALERT FOR THOSE IN US! I saved 15% on my wax order today at Pioneer Midwest. I ordered tins of Oslo Purple and Blue list at $26 and change, Swix Blue klister at $20 and change, plus a tin of Swix Polar White and Rex Universal Tar. I have it all coming here with shipping for just under $92 !

Unless I’m blessed beyond measure with snow and skiing, my only remaining ski expenses will be gas and maybe a ticket or two to ride a chair!

[freedom glider]

[/quote]
Application: The key to applying Oslo is many thin layers. To apply, push the tin of wax straight down on the kick zone of ski with light pressure twist quickly and remove. This will leave a small spot of wax on the ski. Repeat until the kick zone has a thin layer of oslo applied. Smooth and warm with a synthetic cork. Apply more layers as necessary.
[/quote]

ok the key term here is "as necessary." can an experienced waxer tell by look, touch etc whether the kick wax layer is right? or does it need to be skied?

am assuming that it must be challenging to apply these thin layers to a cold snowy ski, right?

[fisheater]

I don’t have a problem applying kick wax to snowy ski after I wipe it off. However part of that is that I have a base of polar white on my entire ski. Kick wax sticks pretty easily to kick wax. My advice is to start with a wax on the colder side of snow temperatures. I do not have a thermometer, I just make assumptions based upon current temperature and how cold it was in the last few hours.
I make better assumptions on how much wax to apply after doing this for a while. When I first started I was more conservative in that I applied just to the wax pocket. You get a feel for a good coat, for me a good two or three coats for blue and green hard wax (or Rex Universal Tar), applied in the wax pocket. Now how I differ from my earlier days, is if grip isn’t there with wax in the wax pocket I immediately go to a warmer temperature wax. If I have grip, but not good enough grip I put another good coat or two from the heel up to close to the tip.
The beautiful thing is that as long as it’s just too warm of a wax you applied, if you are sticking just scrape off and start over.
Now let’s say you were slipping, and then you stepped up one temperature warmer and now you’re sticking. What had worked for me is to Not scrape, but carefully crayon on that colder wax over the warmer wax. The colder slides, but the warmer wax underneath grips the snow crystals.
Waxing isn’t rocket science, now World Cup race waxing is rocket science, but recreational, backcountry ski waxing is not difficult . I will admit I learn more every year, and I have greatly improved over the years. I also know from the first time I waxed, I liked the feel greatly over the feel of skiing on scales.

Edit: backcountry waxing is NOT difficult

[Woodserson]

The more you do it the easier it becomes, both in choosing which wax and how much to apply.

If it's cold and snowy your probably not going to use Start Oslo, you'll be using Swix Blue Extra or Blue or Green, crayon on, buff, and go.

[FourthCoast]

I got a tin of Start oslo purple as an early Christmas gift. Do i absolutely need to use a synthetic cork? The one synthetic i have was used when i got it. It seems to have wax and dirt on it. Can i use my natural cork or clean this synthetic one somehow? Or, do i need to buy a new synthetic cork for thus wax. I am stingy.

[fisheater]

Don’t worry about your synthetic cork, maybe wipe it with a little citrus Goo Gone. The synthetic cork will look black and dirty after you use the Oslo.
I think I might give mine a quick wipe to start the season. I would buy a bottle of Goo Gone before I started using the Oslo. It doesn’t quite scrape off completely.

[Chisana]

Just stumbled on this thread.I have been using start tar waxes for 25 years or more. Not familiar with the rex universal tar, but will certainly put it on my wish list. Skied today in fresh powder at 20 degrees f.,and had mule kick and great glide on start tar.
I apply it by heating the wax and dabbing it on the kickzone with a twisting motion,then heating and corking.
I do find the rex base binders to be the best of the binder waxes. If you haven't used binders,but have experienced losing your kickwax on abrasive snow conditions, give binder wax a try. I apply it the same way I apply the start tar, and then after cooling, as apply the kick wax of the day.

[Krummholz]

I got a tin of Start oslo purple as an early Christmas gift. Do i absolutely need to use a synthetic cork? The one synthetic i have was used when i got it. It seems to have wax and dirt on it. Can i use my natural cork or clean this synthetic one somehow? Or, do i need to buy a new synthetic cork for thus wax. I am stingy.

When I stopped by my local outfitter to get some wax and a cork, I was recommended a synthetic one cuz it’s her opinion that the friction causes it to heat the wax better. She said you can clean it by rubbing it on some sandpaper.