Binding Plates and DIY
- JohnSKepler
- Posts: 559
- Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2022 6:31 pm
- Location: Utahoming
- Ski style: XCBCD
- Favorite Skis: Voile Objective BC, Rossignol BC 80
- Favorite boots: Scarpa F1 Bellows, Alpina Alaska XP
- Occupation: Rocket Scientist
Binding Plates and DIY
Is there something called a binding plate that can more-easily allow swapping between bindings on a single ski or across several skis? Perhaps a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum that has several sets of holes tapped for various bindings? The plate could then be screwed to the ski allowing a very simple and reliable way to swap bindings. I can't really find a lot outside very specific plates for particular bindings, like these shift plates from 22Designs. It ain't rocket science.
In this case the holes are for different positions of the same binding. What I'm envisioning are sets of holes for different bindings like, say... an Xplore and a 75mm cable. If one plans ahead it seems to me to make more sense than drilling and installing inserts. It is impossible that things like this aren't in use I just can't seem to find any! But, I'm certainly able and willing to fabricate them myself unless there's some reason it won't work like... thermal expansion or keeping the center of the ski from flexing.
In this case the holes are for different positions of the same binding. What I'm envisioning are sets of holes for different bindings like, say... an Xplore and a 75mm cable. If one plans ahead it seems to me to make more sense than drilling and installing inserts. It is impossible that things like this aren't in use I just can't seem to find any! But, I'm certainly able and willing to fabricate them myself unless there's some reason it won't work like... thermal expansion or keeping the center of the ski from flexing.
Veni, Vidi, Viski
Re: Binding Plates and DIY
I think you note the issue: ski flex and stack. And honestly well installed threaded inserts work fine for swapping different bindings around. I don’t see how a drilled and tapped plate would improve things.
- Inspiredcapers
- Posts: 315
- Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2018 4:11 pm
- Location: Southeast BC
- Ski style: Erratic
- Favorite Skis: Gammes currently at the top of the list
- Favorite boots: Transnordics in NNN-BC & 75mm
- Occupation: Heavy Equipment Operator
Re: Binding Plates and DIY
If you’re determined to do this and are just experimenting Altai has these…
https://us-store.altaiskis.com/product/adapter-plate/
…they don’t have the Xplore pattern but it wouldn’t be too difficult to make it work.
The attached picture kind of gives an idea as to what I’m talking about…pattern for Xplore, adaptor plate, NNN-BC side by side. The holes are really, really close for putting Xplore on but not bang on.
You’ve likely see this already…
https://www.telemarktalk.com/viewtopic.php?t=5428
https://us-store.altaiskis.com/product/adapter-plate/
…they don’t have the Xplore pattern but it wouldn’t be too difficult to make it work.
The attached picture kind of gives an idea as to what I’m talking about…pattern for Xplore, adaptor plate, NNN-BC side by side. The holes are really, really close for putting Xplore on but not bang on.
You’ve likely see this already…
https://www.telemarktalk.com/viewtopic.php?t=5428
- bobbytooslow
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Fri Feb 02, 2018 2:52 pm
- JohnSKepler
- Posts: 559
- Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2022 6:31 pm
- Location: Utahoming
- Ski style: XCBCD
- Favorite Skis: Voile Objective BC, Rossignol BC 80
- Favorite boots: Scarpa F1 Bellows, Alpina Alaska XP
- Occupation: Rocket Scientist
Re: Binding Plates and DIY
So what's the downside? Is there a downside? Is there really a downside other than 150 grams or so?
Veni, Vidi, Viski
Re: Binding Plates and DIY
Let’s back this conversation up a bit… top of mind issues…
1. Consider materials. Aluminum convenient, cheap, light. Not strong, which will be an issue with a UNF machine thread between the plate and the binding. Also, electrolytic (dissimilar metal) corrosion because it will be used in a damp environment in conjunction with a steel fastener. Aluminum galls like a sob too.
Mild steel out of the question, it will rust like hell. So that means stainless steel. There will be cost and machining issues but it’s a great material. Strong but the weight penalty will be high. Will need stainless fasteners to prevent electrolytic corrosion. Galling is a problem in stainless steel too… even when stainless fasteners are used. So some kind of thread lube is needed.
2. Consider weight. Both aluminum and steel need to be thick enough to prevent fastener pull out. Fine threads aren’t interference threads, so some form of thread locker would be needed… remember, the binding and plate will be subjected to cyclical stress. Aluminum is pretty light… but steel is much heavier. You can’t just torque down the plate either… not with stainless steel. It’s too stiff when thick enough for a binding to be mounted to it with a UNF thread.
UNF threads needed because UNC would require a really thick plate to have enough thread engagement. The paradox is that UNC threads aren’t strong. Not a lot of material there. Different issue with quiver killers because the threaded holes are deep into the ski, so can use lots of threads to handle the load.
3. Consider impact on mounting points. Some compromise needed between hole patterns… close patterns will require an offset which will necessitate less than ideal fore and aft placement. Not a huge issue (an inch either way isn’t as much of a deal breaker as ppl think it is), but you have to be prepared for it.
4. Need to find an ideal placement to attach the plate to the ski. The binding is usually “it” but you won’t have that luxury. Might be stymied by the holes needed for all those bindings you’re trying to use. The real estate will get complicated.
Apart from this, there is also the natural camber of the ski. Not a huge issue over short distances, which is why there’s never a problem with an alpine or tech binding (those are multi piece). Might be an issue with a longer binding plate for accommodating Xplore, NNN BC etc. Especially on a BC or AT ski, which has camber.
1. Consider materials. Aluminum convenient, cheap, light. Not strong, which will be an issue with a UNF machine thread between the plate and the binding. Also, electrolytic (dissimilar metal) corrosion because it will be used in a damp environment in conjunction with a steel fastener. Aluminum galls like a sob too.
Mild steel out of the question, it will rust like hell. So that means stainless steel. There will be cost and machining issues but it’s a great material. Strong but the weight penalty will be high. Will need stainless fasteners to prevent electrolytic corrosion. Galling is a problem in stainless steel too… even when stainless fasteners are used. So some kind of thread lube is needed.
2. Consider weight. Both aluminum and steel need to be thick enough to prevent fastener pull out. Fine threads aren’t interference threads, so some form of thread locker would be needed… remember, the binding and plate will be subjected to cyclical stress. Aluminum is pretty light… but steel is much heavier. You can’t just torque down the plate either… not with stainless steel. It’s too stiff when thick enough for a binding to be mounted to it with a UNF thread.
UNF threads needed because UNC would require a really thick plate to have enough thread engagement. The paradox is that UNC threads aren’t strong. Not a lot of material there. Different issue with quiver killers because the threaded holes are deep into the ski, so can use lots of threads to handle the load.
3. Consider impact on mounting points. Some compromise needed between hole patterns… close patterns will require an offset which will necessitate less than ideal fore and aft placement. Not a huge issue (an inch either way isn’t as much of a deal breaker as ppl think it is), but you have to be prepared for it.
4. Need to find an ideal placement to attach the plate to the ski. The binding is usually “it” but you won’t have that luxury. Might be stymied by the holes needed for all those bindings you’re trying to use. The real estate will get complicated.
Apart from this, there is also the natural camber of the ski. Not a huge issue over short distances, which is why there’s never a problem with an alpine or tech binding (those are multi piece). Might be an issue with a longer binding plate for accommodating Xplore, NNN BC etc. Especially on a BC or AT ski, which has camber.
Go Ski
Re: Binding Plates and DIY
I made swappable binding plates using the Rottefella FreeRide pink plates a few years ago precisely to easily move one binging between multiple skis without necessarily disassembling. I posted about an early version here: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4257&p=42025&hilit= ... 088#p42025
Currently, I’m skiing a slightly modified but still using the pink plates. The M3 binding has been on this plate for the last 3 seasons and working quite well being swapped between two pairs of skis. I also have a Frankenstein binding with M3 toe and Vice heel which I move around to lighter skis or touring.
Currently, I’m skiing a slightly modified but still using the pink plates. The M3 binding has been on this plate for the last 3 seasons and working quite well being swapped between two pairs of skis. I also have a Frankenstein binding with M3 toe and Vice heel which I move around to lighter skis or touring.
Re: Binding Plates and DIY
Leon, your plates are awesome, congratulations. I agree that it's not easy to swap bindings when it involves dealing with too many screws, at least on the field. With Meidjos I'm also concerned about damaging the threads of the LT plate, specifically those that hold the brakes.
On a side note, I suspect that you are solving more problems than you really have, I guess it's more of a hobbie by itself? I'm curious in particular about your frankenbindings, always thought that it was more about saving the money of a pair Meidjos or Lynxs, but you have them all. What other advantages do you identify?
On a side note, I suspect that you are solving more problems than you really have, I guess it's more of a hobbie by itself? I'm curious in particular about your frankenbindings, always thought that it was more about saving the money of a pair Meidjos or Lynxs, but you have them all. What other advantages do you identify?
Re: Binding Plates and DIY
@Andinista
My current project is to cobble together a TR2 tech toe (laterally releasable toe) with a Bishop spring/heel which is very laterally rigid and would provide a rigid frame to rotate and release at the toe. Basically, a tele-tech resort setup with releasability at the toe. Not sure how that will evolve…
You are absolutely right. It may be cheaper and would save a lot of time to just buy the skis and binding to make the different ski-binding combinations. BUT I like to tinker and the idea of tailoring the ski and binding combo to the snow and terrain I encounter, and this also gives me a flexible platform for making Frankenstein bindings without ruining perfectly good boards. And to move the bindings fore-aft without having to disassemble and reassemble the binding. This hobby probably falls in the same general category as skiing in that there is no purpose to go up the mountain only to come down. The process is the fun part. To that end there are many people making their own bindings. @bobbytooslow made a compendium of just the Vice-Axl TTS here: https://www.backcountrytalk.com/forum/b ... compendiumI suspect that you are solving more problems than you really have, I guess it's more of a hobbie by itself? I'm curious in particular about your frankenbindings, always thought that it was more about saving the money of a pair Meidjos or Lynxs, but you have them all. What other advantages do you identify?
My current project is to cobble together a TR2 tech toe (laterally releasable toe) with a Bishop spring/heel which is very laterally rigid and would provide a rigid frame to rotate and release at the toe. Basically, a tele-tech resort setup with releasability at the toe. Not sure how that will evolve…