Unique question (maybe)… Boots, bindings, non-trad ski

[stilltryin]

I would also add--while the glidelites are "hok-like" they actually ski much worse than hoks...

I did not know that -- seems like an important point.

[Woodsbum]

I don't know about the skis you are using. I do have Hoks, though. I've skied with very good alpine people on AT gear. In my opinion the Hoks are more fun and allow you to ski more kinds of terrain and tree cover. The steeper, the better. These are definitely not snowshoes though that is a good marketing strategy and they can be used like that. The 125s are best with 3 pin and cables when I'm in my heavy leather boots. When I wear my new T4s, I don't use the cable. The pre 2015 145s are better for touring than downhill in my opinion. Leather boots and 3 pin cables don't have enough power for the 145s (not for my xtreme Hoking anyway). I have some new 145s that have been redesigned that I can't wait to try with the new T4s - not sure I'll need the cables. I ditched the universal bindings after the first year. They hve their place but, they're limiting. I ski in the woods, pretty much everything is either up or down around here. And, I love exploring uncurated, thick, steep stuff. This is where the longer "real" skis fall down. My buddies joke about the Hoks not being "real" skis until the first few times they're peeling off skins and I'm not or when I'm having a blast in cliffy steep untouched powder that they just can't ski because it's too tight. If I was out West or wanted to stay in the sidecountry or the one or two moutainsides open enough for big skis, I might consider something else. But, for New England's forested mountains there is nothing better. Also, if touring rolling terrain (not exploring) you might want "real" skis. I'd get 3 pin cable bindings and some Alaskas to start and if your skis aren't up to it get some 125 Hoks.

[JasonT]

I don't know about the skis you are using. I do have Hoks, though. I've skied with very good alpine people on AT gear. In my opinion the Hoks are more fun and allow you to ski more kinds of terrain and tree cover. The steeper, the better. These are definitely not snowshoes though that is a good marketing strategy and they can be used like that. The 125s are best with 3 pin and cables when I'm in my heavy leather boots. When I wear my new T4s, I don't use the cable. The pre 2015 145s are better for touring than downhill in my opinion. Leather boots and 3 pin cables don't have enough power for the 145s (not for my xtreme Hoking anyway). I have some new 145s that have been redesigned that I can't wait to try with the new T4s - not sure I'll need the cables. I ditched the universal bindings after the first year. They hve their place but, they're limiting. I ski in the woods, pretty much everything is either up or down around here. And, I love exploring uncurated, thick, steep stuff. This is where the longer "real" skis fall down. My buddies joke about the Hoks not being "real" skis until the first few times they're peeling off skins and I'm not or when I'm having a blast in cliffy steep untouched powder that they just can't ski because it's too tight. If I was out West or wanted to stay in the sidecountry or the one or two moutainsides open enough for big skis, I might consider something else. But, for New England's forested mountains there is nothing better. Also, if touring rolling terrain (not exploring) you might want "real" skis. I'd get 3 pin cable bindings and some Alaskas to start and if your skis aren't up to it get some 125 Hoks.

THANK YOU for the opinion. I’m starting to lean towards a burly boot/binding set up (like the Scarpa’s you mention) and sticking with these BD “skis.” I figure I got a great deal on them and if I purchase boots/bindings like you recommend I can, at the very least, pull that stuff and put it on “real skis” if this doesn’t work.

What you described is precisely what I’m looking to do here in Wisconsin and the UP. There are these great short, steep-ish areas with untouched snow and then there are these wide open “blue style” hills and fields, also with untouched snow. I want to be able to hit all that while also enjoying a leisurely jaunt through the woods on established snowshoe/hiking trails.

[Woodsbum]

THANK YOU for the opinion. I’m starting to lean towards a burly boot/binding set up (like the Scarpa’s you mention) and sticking with these BD “skis.” I figure I got a great deal on them and if I purchase boots/bindings like you recommend I can, at the very least, pull that stuff and put it on “real skis” if this doesn’t work.

What you described is precisely what I’m looking to do here in Wisconsin and the UP. There are these great short, steep-ish areas with untouched snow and then there are these wide open “blue style” hills and fields, also with untouched snow. I want to be able to hit all that while also enjoying a leisurely jaunt through the woods on established snowshoe/hiking trails.

I hope this set up works for you. It's just so much fun. I came to this being a terrible skier so maybe your experience will be different but, I wound up ditching the poles and going with a tiak (see videos on Altai's website). I just cut an ash sapling about 7 feet long. Made a huge difference. Good luck!

[havuja]

I’m starting to lean towards a burly boot/binding set up (like the Scarpa’s you mention) and sticking with these BD “skis.” I figure I got a great deal on them and if I purchase boots/bindings like you recommend I can, at the very least, pull that stuff and put it on “real skis” if this doesn’t work.

I have those same skis (OAC Kar 147, rebranded by BD), and that is exactly what I would have suggested. I am doing laps with them(with the OAC binding) up and down the esker before going to sauna. Works in hero snow, easy to turn in steep and dense forest. Not real skis, but fun. I plan to mount them with inserts, so I can use them either with 3-pin or OAC bindings, they have the same mount pattern. I suppose that a plastic boot with 3 pin will easily overpower those skis, it is interesting to see what they can do.

8 years ago I had the chance to use Hoks and Kars side by side for a few weeks. Did not notice big differences, But later chose Kars due to slightly better glide, and possibly out of want to support local business. Hoks might be a more solid build though, but my Kars are doing fine after four years.