Sanding the kick zone of waxable backcountry XC skis?

[Ptarmigan]

In reading about base prep of waxable classic XC skis on the Swix and other sites, I have come across information that suggests lightly sanding the kick zone of new skis. I searched this forum and didn't find much on that. Is this something you all do when you first get new waxable XC backcountry skis such as the Asnes Nansen? If so, how do you know you are sanding the correct area? Would it be from the heel to the spot where X-Skins attach?

Taking sandpaper to the beautiful new bases of our Nansen skis is a bit intimidating. I want to make sure to sand them correctly (if we even need to do this at all). Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much for your help with this question and all my other ones lately! There is a lot to learn .

[fgd135]

New skis, and from time to time, used skis, need to be checked for base flatness; usually a ski shop checks that and recommends a base grind if that is needed; easy enough to check yourself with a true bar or scraper; google that to find directions. Base grinding, aka "ski tune" is usually done with expensive cnc base grinding machines, and frankly is well worth it to get the bases flat and the edges sharp but configured for turns.
A flat base results in predictable performance, without high or low spots, and is easier to wax, and also easier to clean. A slight degree of edge bevel (and by that I mean 1 degree or 1 and a half degrees) in the tips and tails can make turning easier to initiate and finish--but with a ski like the Nansen, it would not be wise to put too much bevel on the edges, if any at all, imho.
Some XC skiers and ski racers may sand their ski's wax pockets, and use certain tools to apply "structure" to the bases of their racing skis/skating skis to enhance waxing/performance in certain specific conditions in order to eke out a few more milliseconds of speed on machine set tracks, similar to what alpine ski racers do for their gear. These skiers often have multiple sets of skis, each tuned and structured for specific types of snow conditions. Structuring for wet or dry snow conditions can be done when the skis are tuned, and could have some benefit in esp. wet snow conditions; but for backcountry skiing here in Colorado I fail to see any benefit. Nordic waxes will work without any issues...
Otherwise there is no need to attack your ski bases with sandpaper at any time. I wouldn't do it, ever.

[fisheater]

I have never sanded my bases in the kick pocket. When I alpine skied I base planed, structured, and beveled edge angles. Originally having shops do my work, then using hand tools to do the work.
Other than filing burrs on the edges, and a start of the year base clean, I just wax and go. The skis handle well for me. I don’t race. I really mostly ski with my dog. She thinks I’m slow on the hill climbs and the flats, and very confused that I pass her on downhills.
I think that if you like to fool with your skis, you can probably notice a difference and will find satisfaction with doing the extra work. I definitely notice a difference between kick waxed skis and waxless skis. That is why I ski on waxable skis.
For what it’s worth, sanding of the wax pocket is more important when skiing in tracks, but really more so when racing. When you race and you start slipping you really can’t stop and apply more wax. If you ski 6 or 7 miles touring and you start to slip, it’s no big deal to stop and put another layer or two of wax on. Maybe even have some trail mix. I could usually keep powering on, but I figure the dog needs a break !
I would think you can tour farther than you want in Colorado winter conditions before you need to add wax!

[Woodserson]

For what it’s worth, sanding of the wax pocket is more important when skiing in tracks, but really more so when racing. When you race and you start slipping you really can’t stop and apply more wax. If you ski 6 or 7 miles touring and you start to slip, it’s no big deal to stop and put another layer or two of wax on. Maybe even have some trail mix. I could usually keep powering on, but I figure the dog needs a break !

Pure truth right here

[paulk]

No, wax works.

[lilcliffy]

Hi Ptarmigan (love your username BTW),

Most (if not 100%- whether the presenter realizes it or not) of the grip-kick wax material, advice and instruction currently available is intended for performance Classic XC skiing on a groomed track.

Some of the info/advice available is useful for Nordic ski touring- but most of it is not.

I am no expert in performance Classic XC track skiing.

What is the purpose of sanding the kick zone? Kick wax retention?

And what about a low-cambered touring ski like the Nansen? Does the Nansen really have a "wax pocket"?

When you stand on your new Nansens- equally weighted- is there a wax pocket underneath?

[johral]

It would be pretty hard to do any damage hand sanding anyway. Unless you spent all day at it, you won't be removing much material. I've sanded on older skis to get scratches out of the base and it takes some time.

[Ptarmigan]

Thanks for the thoughts on sanding bases, everyone. It makes sense that this is mainly for classic XC skis for groomed areas. I was really happy we could skip that step . We ironed in Swix Polar grip wax from tip to tail on our Nansens today and are ready to add our wax of the day. Now we just need some snow!

[johral]

Sounds like you are ready!

[JohnSKepler]

I've got a new set of Asnes FT62 I'm looking forward to using in the next month. Maybe the next few days depending on what happens over the weekend.

Doing research on waxing turns up a lot of info on sanding, grinding, and structuring. I was really wondering how much of that was appropriate for an amateur warrior just learning to prep waxless and work on Telemark turns. So far, the information from this forum has been excellent and much appreciated. I think I'll skip the base grinding, sanding, and structure for now!

Looking like rain and snow in the valley over the next few days. Should be all snow in the mountains. And so it begins.